Since my not-so-triumphant return from the land of the damned, many people have been requesting a blog update, or at the very least its equivalent in verbal form during so-called ‘casual conversation’. So I’ll first answer a few common questions before moving on. Did I have a great time? Yes and No. Would I go back? A resounding ‘maybe’. Did India change me? Of course not.
Let me take up that last question for a moment. Why would India change me? I don’t want to label myself a cynical ass right off the bat, but really. I’m approaching two degrees in Political Science, and potentially starting a third. I’m well aware of the existence of poor people in India, and of the immense social and political handicaps that presents for India’s development. This is not new to me – in fact, it is in part the reason I wanted to travel there in the first place. I’m sensitized. I wished to witness a different way of life, and a different perspective on certain activities considered unproblematic and mundane in North America. I didn’t expect to learn, but rather observe. In this sense, India did not disappoint, I’m by and large I’m none the wiser for it. I did, however, learn several things which I did not expect upon departure. First, I apparently enjoy Nutella. Second, urinals are by far preferable to open fields full of wild pigs. I am far less discretionary about my urination habits now. Third, India reminded me that I hate camping (I temporarily forgot). Not that I did any, but the smell of smoke is so pervasive that you’d think Indians only ever eat roasted marshmellows. Fourth, I quite enjoy bidets (which are as common as the homeless) or what Indians term “geysers”. This in my view is a hallmark of civilisation, one very much lacking in the West. Fifth, I value good coffee, wine, beer, electricity, reliable internet and hot water in winter to a far greater extent than I previously thought. I have not changed, rather I have simple asserted my pretentions. So that said, I’ll break down the rest of my experiences into several categories, for you to browse at your leisure.
THE FOOD
India’s food provides the bulk of good experiences, with practically nothing in the ‘disappointing’ category. Winners include a fish tandoori, and a tandoori chicken tikka masala – both from a phenomenal (and expensive) restaurant in Udaipur. An Italian restaurant in Mumbai provided an amazing pesto gnocci on New Year’s Eve, I might add. Beyond the big cities and expensive restaurants though, the rule of thumb is to avoid Western food at all costs. Street pakoras, samosas, jalebis and other unknown items also surpass their Western grocery store equivalents. The only exception may be the train food, though I can get back to that later.
THE PEOPLE
… are both horrible and wonderful. It really depends on whether someone is trying to sell you something. In Agra, literally dozens and dozens of touts swarm you at every opportunity, whether you’re at the train station or just walking down the street. Everyone has something, and the assumption is that you need/want it, but you just don’t know it yet. It’s as if you’re Princess Diana, being swarmed by paparazzi, except that you are woefully unimportant. I only lost my cool once or twice, essentially telling a cycle rickshaw driver (who was following me) to go forth and multiply. I should add here that if you’ve already decided to purchase a product or service from someone (like a shop owner, or a rickshaw driver) they transform into overwhelmingly helpful individuals. Our plan to speak French to one another in the markets to foil our bargaining opponents also failed – usually because they speak French, or some poor variant. And Japanese, Spanish, and so on. Eight year olds put us to shame in the language department. Otherwise, the people are tremendously friendly. It’s worth getting lost in the tangle of shantytown streets, as no one is interested in selling you anything – just saying hello. We met overwhelmingly friendly people on the trains, too – often large families going on vacation, who insist that you eat their food and share chai. The line of questioning is nearly identical in every such experience: Where are you from? English or French? How long in India? How long left in India? Why India? What do you do for work? Are you married? Children? And so on…
One old man I met on the train insisted upon showing me the 300+ photos on his camera, complete with home videos of various monuments throughout India. He also offered his observations on a diverse range of topics, including Gandhi (he was a good guy), the British (they were evil, but the English language is the best thing that ever happened to India), the Hindi language (which was “alien” to him), North vs. South India (the South wins) and religion (the root of all problems). Others were not so kind – for example, Ashley’s rear was groped on the Delhi Metro. I personally found this entertaining, however she felt differently. People tend to be more open with bodily functions, too – the lack of (any) privacy is no barrier to public urination, spitting, or even defecation in some cases. Women are suspiciously absent from the streets also – most likely at home cooking, or some other wifely duty. There is also an obviously dark side to that headline, however.
TRANSPORTATION
I was somewhat put off that traveling through India was not, in fact, like the movie The Darjeeling Limited at all. But in hindsight, it was every bit as interesting. Trains are efficient, usually run on time, and offer the most amazing people-watching moments. The exception is when the fog interfered with our plans, canceling a flight from Mumbai to Varanasi and a train from Delhi to Shimla. How does fog fuck things up so bad? Being from BC, I just don’t get it. Anyhow, back on topic. Sleeping on the trains was remarkably comfortable, with sheets, blankets and pillows provided. The bathrooms (sorry, I meant to say “holes in the train”) were horrendously disgusting, by far the worst in India. Most likely because it’s hard to squat, aim and balance all at the same time. Train stations offered the best scenery – stray dogs and rats mingle with the homeless, tourists, middle and upper class Indians, all the while locals sell their ware on the platforms. Some stations have good food (kiosk vendors), others (like Delhi) contain a McDonald’s. The food served on the train itself was generally bland (especially “breakfast”), and may have contributed to a sickness I developed in Aurangabad.
The Delhi Metro is by far the cleanest and least crowded I have travelled – take note, Ottawa. Beyond that, we didn’t do much in the way of public transportation. Taxis (most commonly found in Mumbai) were fast, affordable and often charged on a meter – and the driving is by far the most orderly here. Rickshaw drivers (particularly in Delhi) drive a hard bargain, but offer the most hair-raising transportation experience in India. Driving in India is exciting, in the sense that you never know if you’ll arrive at your chosen destination (alive). We rode a “share jeep” with 15 other inidividuals from Aurangabad to Ellora which was interesting to say the least. No one was particularly interested in chatting with me, probably because they had just witnessed me vomit up a storm prior to departure.
SHOPPING
It was good. And cheap. Or expensive… but mainly cheap. I bought a new copy of Superfreakonomics for 300 Rupees (about 6 dollars!). Other interesting book finds include Hitler’s Mein Kampf. Not much to add here – other than you must sift through an awful amount of shit to find the good stuff.
OTHER
I may add to this section over time, as I recall details. That said, it seems a good place to state my overall preferences. Mumbai, in retrospect, was great. It was by far the cleanest (no cows!) and cosmopolitan city we visited. Delhi is not far behind, but totally lacks atmosphere or presence in the same way. I found Delhi quite bleak, actually, despite some fantastic monuments and shopping. Rajasthan was by far the most intriguing and beautiful, particularly Udaipur – I would visit here again. Agra is a filthy disgusting hole. And while the Taj Mahal is here, and is undeniably gorgeous, it does look exactly like the photos you see beforehand. No surprises there, but an oasis of calm in Agra nonetheless. Shimla was pretty being up in the mountains and all, but this was spoiled by the terrible sickness which struck me here. I would likely return North again, too. Other than that, a favourite memorable moment was definitely the five-legged cow I saw in Jaipur. The leg came out its back, and the owner wanted money for taking a picture – so I didn’t (a big regret now). I suspect it had something to do with generations of cows past who subside on nothing but urban garbage. The filth is one thing that took me aback slightly – I new India was dirty, but it can be downright hellishly filthy (especially Agra). Residents seem to think nothing of emptying trash bins onto the streets, and sweeping it into the open sewers – totally ignoring the large public bins available in some places. The plethora of urban animals only seen in grocery stores in the West seem to subside on this filth, including drinking water from the sewers. It’s enough to make anyone go vegetarian. Other surprises included the technological mastery of Indians – everyone has the latest mobile phone, and internet is standard everywhere. We took money out from reliable ATM’s all the time, eliminating the need for many costly and difficult-to-cash traveler’s cheques. I didn’t expect everyone to be a hobo, of course, but still when homeless (the ones who literally sleep on the streets – not the slum variety) carry cell phones, one can’t help but be somewhat surprised. Kind of like when I discovered my newfound love of Nutella. Makes you think.
[For several hundred photos and other anecdotes, check out my facebook page!]
No comments:
Post a Comment